Countering Anxiety-Based Behavior

In This Chapter

• Knowing how to recognize fear
• Dealing with submissive urination
• Curing separation anxiety
• Treating your dog’s fears and phobias

Fear, anxiety, and stress are the big three ingredients when it comes to psychological problems in humans, and they’re equally important in the psychology of dogs. Sometimes it’s quite clear that your dog is worried and afraid. In other instances, you only know your dog is afraid after he engages in certain unpleasant behaviors, which can run the gamut from destroying furniture and objects, loud barking and howling in your absence, or even behaviors that look much like unprovoked aggression, such as nipping or biting someone. The first step in helping your dog with his anxiety is being able to recognize it in the first place.

The Face of Fear

The more obvious signs that a dog is anxious or afraid include ears slicked back, tail down, whining, whimpering and other high pitched sounds, and cringing or rolling on the ground (see Figure 14-1). An anxious dog may respond in different ways, however, depending upon the type of fear it is dealing with.

Fear isn’t a simple emotion, and often surfaces in unique ways and to varying degrees. The strongest and most obvious form comes when the dog feels that its very life and safety are threatened. In such situations, only two courses of action are open to the dog.

It can escape the fearful situation, or it can fight the individual who is the source of the threat.

Figure 14-1: Typical fearful position with body lowered.

Technical Stuff

Among fearful dogs, you find a number of fear biters. These dogs are virtually swamped by their fear and may seem to be acting both inappropriately and unpredictably to otherwise everyday situations. If a trauma has left a dog legitimately so afraid of a person or situation that he is willing to attack to save himself from harm, he desperately needs to be reconditioned to accept the stimulus. Though this process may take time and patience, it’s not impossible.

A fearful dog prefers to head for the hills and run away from situations or people that frighten him, whether threat is real or imagined. Consider the dog who is afraid of newcomers and who will immediately hide the moment the doorbell rings. In the wild, this reaction is a survival skill; in the home, it creates confusion, as most people love to introduce and share their pet’s love as though it were another family member. Of course, if anyone in your family hid when a visitor knocked, you’d immediately seek help. So, too, should you be alerted if your dog is showing this level of anxiety.

Normal social fear and communication It is fascinating that more dogs don’t use aggression when fearful or threatened, though as with many behaviors, an evolutionary explanation exists. It seems that evolution took a dislike to aggression among members of the same group, unless there is no other recourse. In a pack of wolves, for example, it’s important to their survival that they stay together, which requires strong social bonds. Within a pack of wolves, a hierarchy evolved to organize group interaction, with the brightest and most sensible wolves guiding the rest of the pack. A nervous or fearful wolf might feel intense conflict when addressed by a more dominant pack member, but running away or showing aggression would not be an appropriate social response. Instead, wolves, and in turn dogs, learned more appropriate gestures to communicate respect, submission, and fear. In effect, this social skill allows them to stay in the group, share in companionship, and yet avoid conflict.

The eyes have it If your dog is panting or showing any other signs of stress, look carefully at his eyes. In human beings, stress, anxiety, and excitement cause the pupils of our eyes to dilate. The same is true in dogs. If you have a breed where you can see the size of his pupils, check whether they’re larger than usual. If so, your dog is under pressure of some sort. Of course, this assessment requires that you first know how large your dog’s pupils are when he’s not worried, so take this opportunity to look into his eyes now so that you have something to compare with later if you think your dog is going through an anxious period.

At times, a fear is manifested, and a dog can’t retreat. This situation creates an impulse of fight or flight, and when left no other option, a dog will react aggressively in its natural impulse to simply survive. In the wild, this reaction may be seen if a dog were cornered by a larger predator, such as a bear or a mountain lion, but in everyday life, this reaction can evolve when a dog is tethered, caged, or cornered.

Using social skills to resolve conflict

Fortunately, dogs who bite humans out of fear are in the minority. Dogs accept humans as other dogs, and they often use the same social skills that help them adapt to social living throughout evolution.

Remember

Truly fearful dogs often have a history of social isolation or neglect in puppyhood. If a young dog is isolated from humans and/or other dogs during her early socialization period (see Meeting the Needs of Your Growing Puppy), she’ll be unable to learn appropriate play and communication skills. When placed in “normal” social situations as an adult, the social “handicap” will be readily noted through fearful/aggressive displays.

When a dog is socialized normally, he develops natural communication skills to avoid conflict and stress with other group members. Obviously, in the case of conflict, escape and fighting are still options open to the dog. Of the two, fighting is a less likely outcome.

The major communication signal that submissive dogs use to avoid conflict is to lower their body frame as they cringe with both belly and head near the ground while looking up. Designed to shrink appearances, it’s exactly the opposite of expressing dominance, which involves standing tall, tail up, ears up, fur standing erect to make an individual look larger. In this case of submission, the dog is basically saying, “Let’s not argue” or “I accept your leadership and higher social status.”

Remember

The presence of a ritualized signal, such as the lowered body, isn’t a sign of physical fear, but rather a means of avoiding the frightening possibility of confrontation. This stance is no different than a peasant bowing before a king to show respect and acknowledge his rank.

Recognizing signs of stress

Fortunately, most of our dogs don’t often have full-blown bouts of fear, but they can suffer from a variety of stressors and worries. The following signs and signals indicate stress:

• Panting: In addition to panting or perspiring when a dog is overheated, a dog may also pant or appear distressed when he’s experiencing excitement or anxiety. Thus, when a dog that isn’t moving and that isn’t exposed to warm conditions starts to vigorously pant, this means that he is excited or anxious. Obviously, excitement can come about because of positive events, such as anticipating a walk, but if such a happy event isn’t impending, it’s likely that the dog is anxious, worried, or perhaps even in pain.
• Submissive paw: A subtle sign of distress is a lifted front paw. Though many people may interpret this as cute, it signals emotional conflict, combining social fear with a reasonable dose of insecurity. For example, the raised paw signal for stress evolved from the earliest submissive behavior that puppies display in their litter. This raised paw gesture is also quite common in puppies and means not only mild stress, but a request to be interpreted as, “I need you to do something for me.”

Just For Fun

The submissive paw is a common site in the early stages of obedience training classes where the dogs are quite unsure as to what’s expected of them. If the dog has been placed in a sit position and told to stay, for example, the dogs with their paws raised are also the ones that are most likely to lie down or to break and run to the safety of their master’s side before the time has been completed.

• Obsessive licking: An interesting variation of this licking behavior is a sure sign of stress or anxiety. Adult dogs can show their stress by something that looks like they’re licking the air. They flick their tongues in and out as though licking something when they’re too far away to actually touch the individual who is causing their worry, or when they’re too frightened to actually come close and make physical contact. Air licking is almost always a good indicator of an anxious dog.

Litter tales Many of the gestures that indicate anxiety, worry, or submissive behavior that results from fear actually evolve from things that happened in the litter. After puppies are fed, the mother nudges each pup over onto his back or side with her nose. She then holds him down and licks him from top to bottom. When she starts to lick his face and neck, the puppy’s reaction is to raise his paw and lie there submissively until his mother is finished with her task. Later, when the puppy’s eyes are functioning well, it takes only a hard dominant stare from his mother to cause him to roll over while lifting his paw. Puppies often try to pacify their mother or other members of their litter by licking them when they’re acting hostile or threatening. Later, when the dog is more mature, he may use licking behavior for the same reason. He may lick the hand of his master who has been angry at him, for example.

The Leaky Dog Syndrome

The scene isn’t uncommon. You arrive home, a guest arrives at your house, or you meet someone in the street, and when an attempt is made to greet your dog, you see her crouching on the ground with yellow droplets or a pool of piddle around her. This anxiety-based behavior isn’t a lapse in housetraining. It is a sign that something about the situation is stimulating some extreme feelings of worry, and technically behaviorists refer to this problem as submissive urination.

Like many dog behaviors, you can trace the origin of this one back to the litter. Young pups need to be stimulated by their mother’s licking and nudging before they can urinate or defecate. If the pup doesn’t respond quickly enough, the mother may nudge the genital area quite hard to get things moving, and the resulting yelps from the pups indicate that this action can be unpleasant. Later, when the puppy is older and is effectively using his eyesight, the mother simply has to look as if she intends to roll the pup over to start the toilet ritual to trigger urination. This step saves the mother time (and the pups the discomfort of hard nudges) and prepares the pups to become “housetrained” when they’re capable of following their mother outside to eliminate.

Psychologically, puppies learn early to respond to a dominant look or gesture with submissive urination. As the puppies become more mature, they do gain control over this behavior, and depending upon their life experience, it may never again appear in adulthood. However, in cases of severe stress (which varies, depending on a puppy’s temperament or life experiences), submissive urination can occur and can become a messy and embarrassing problem to the dog’s owners.

Remember

Submissive urination is an involuntary behavior that you can’t correct by becoming angry or upset. Solving the problem requires you to control any display of emotion.

Before addressing the problem, analyze it. When does it occur?

• When you arrive home?
• When you or others are facing the dog?
• When you are angry, scolding, or raising your voice to the dog?
• When you lean over or try to pick him up?
• When the dog meets new people or enters strange places?

Once the situations that trigger the urination are identified, you can clear up the problem in a few weeks, depending upon your skill, consistency, and severity of the problem.

Stopping the leak

Because submissive urination predictably results when your dog is greeting a person whose stature or vocal tones convey authority, you can easily predict when this behavior will occur. When interacting with these authority-type figures, inform them of your efforts and ask them to ignore your dog, either completely or at least until you’ve equipped them with a treat cup or your dog approaches them.

Remember

The good news is that a puppy or a young dog usually outgrows the problem as he matures and can predict interactions. Building your dog’s self-confidence is also critical in resolving this anxietybased problem. Punishment, on the other hand, only intensifies his anxiety and makes matters worse.

The essence of the correction is to remove any signs of threat at those critical times that you’ve identified as the triggers for this behavior. For example:

• If your dog piddles when you approach, don’t approach directly. Stand quietly and then turn sideways and crouch down.
• Don’t say anything to the dog.
• Don’t make eye contact.
• Don’t hold out your hand.
• Let the dog approach you.
• When the dog reaches you, pet him lightly under the chin. Don’t reach out palm down or over the dog’s head. If petting causes further wetting, withhold it for a few days and then try again.

Tip

If your dog is treat motivated, use a treat cup, clicker, or hand-held goodies to externalize his focus as you encourage him to approach you (see Inspiring Behavior with Motivational Techniques).

In addition, make every effort to build your dog’s confidence in your day-to-day interactions:

• Tone down your voice levels when interacting with your dog on a day-to-day basis.
• Use obedience training or other athletic courses (such as agility) using food and praise to encourage your dog’s interest and cooperation. Using simple directions like “Sit” can calm him when meeting new people.
• When a new person approaches, ask her to hold out a treat and avert her eyes (preferably to the ground) as she calls your dog’s name.
• If your dog is truly afraid of strangers, ask to hold your visitor’s hand in yours as your dog sniffs your mutual scent.

The effect of this carefully planned social encounter can slowly recondition your dog’s fear into eager anticipation of positive social encounters. Submissive peeing no more!

Curbing Separation Anxiety

Separation anxiety is a term used to cover a whole collection of extreme reactions that dogs have when their owners leave them alone in their home. Classic responses include

• Destructive chewing or clawing of door, clothing articles, furnishings, counter objects, and so on
• Self-mutilating behaviors, such as excessive licking, scratching, or clawing, referred to as self-micturation
• Digging garden beds, plants, carpets, or bedding
• Indoor micturation (marking, other eliminations)
• Vocal protest, including howling and barking
• Frantic/hyperactive displays upon your departure and arrivals

Our casebooks are filled with such instances: Jet, the border collie who quite literally stripped the kitchen wallpaper by the back door; Billy, the boxer who chewed and dug a hole through a wall between two rooms; and countless other dogs who daily destroy furnishings and clothing when they’re left alone. Separation anxiety is all too common in today’s world where dogs are left alone for prolonged hours and simply expected to entertain themselves. These poor social creatures don’t perform these acts joyfully — each animal was in a heighten state of anxiety, to the point of sheer panic.

Accept it or not, but people are the chief cause of a dog’s prolonged separation anxiety experience. Though most dogs experience separation anxiety during adolescence, handled properly, this developmental phase passes quickly. Handled inappropriately, however, this psychological issue can last a lifetime.

Remember

The experience of separation anxiety has evolutionary roots. In a pack, young puppies remain at the den with a chaperone, as the adult wolves/dogs would venture to a field to hunt or explore. As the puppies matured into adolescents, the release of adult hormones would herald a rite of passage, and the same puppies were included in all adult rituals. Fast forward to present day. Though young puppies readily accept your comings and goings, adolescent dogs must emotionally adjust to your separation as their impulses are quite literally telling them to join you.

Metaphorically speaking Consider yourself a young child, say 8 years old. Suppose that your guardian leaves you alone in the house without telling you when she’ll be back. As the minutes tick by, you’ll likely grow bored, anxious, and/or concerned. You may find yourself involuntarily glancing at her photograph on the wall or finding a familiar object to reassure yourself. When your guardian does finally come home, you’re happy and relieved and show this feeling with a strong display of emotion. Dogs experience a similar anxiety, especially heightened when it’s first experienced during adolescence. If you enjoy indulging your dog or you respond to every request for attention, your departure and consequent separation will be more pronounced. Because a quick phone conversation is out of the question, your dog may try to reach you by barking or howling. If your dog is a nonverbal type, he may visualize your presence and recall images of your activities around the house, such as your reading or television activities or clothing that is familiar and worn. How can shoes or boots that are dragged from the closet be a sign of love and bonding? Though this dog isn’t happy at the moment, his thoughts are most certainly with you when you leave him behind.

How it all begins . . .

Here’s how a common reaction can take an understandably stressful situation for a dog and turn it into an anxiety-producing event: You get a new puppy that you leave at home while you go to work. Each time you return home, you joyfully greet the puppy with lots of touching, praise, and attention. Because, at least initially, you keep regular hours, the dog begins to anticipate these interactions.

But, of course, no matter how regular your routine is, there will be a day that you’ll be late. Because dogs have a reasonable sense of time, your pup will begin to fret and worry. He may imagine hearing the expected sound of your footsteps or seeing you enter the door, but when it doesn’t happen, he becomes anxious and wants to experience your presence. It’s then that he comes upon the book you were reading, slippers you were wearing, or the TV remote control that you handled. If he can’t have you, then at least he can have your scent and the taste associated with your body oils and sweat. So he sniffs, tastes, and ultimately chews the article to gain something akin to your presence.

Finally, you come home — only this time it’s not going to be a happily-ever-after finish. The puppy sees you and, in full innocence, begins the usual greeting routine, perhaps with an added nearly hysterical component of relief at your return. You join in because this display of love is comforting — that is, until your eye falls on the shredded paper that was the book you were reading, the chewed remainder of your slippers, or the bits of plastic that once housed the remote control. Understandably, a frustrated reaction, such as a verbal outlash or a grab-n-drag to what remains of a chewed possession, follows.

The puppy, however, is unlikely to register the object as his simple one-track mind is currently focused on your homecoming. When this confused pup yelps and tries to escape, he’s also filled with terror because the very person he instinctively turns to when distressed is, in fact, the one who is turning on him. Furthermore, because the punishment wasn’t associated with the impulse to chew, he can’t make any psychological connection to the behavior and instead links your reaction to your return and your separation to the events that are sure to follow, which in anyone’s dictionary spells S-E-P-A-R-A-T-I-O-N A-N-X-I-E-T-Y!!!

So when you’re away, your dog impulsively seeks objects that comfort him and grows exceedingly more anxious of your departures. Not only does this whole interaction not correct the puppy’s anxietybased behavior, but he now is likely to develop a conflicted view of you. In his mind, you become an angel and a devil, or Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, in the same body. If this pattern is repeated a few times, it can lead to anxiety about your homecomings, which add to the anxieties concerning your absence. One consequence of this may be submissive urination. (See “The Leaky Dog Syndrome,” earlier in this chapter.) The puppy now more actively solicits your attention when you’re home because he needs the comfort and security that your interaction gives him. When you respond, this causes him to miss you even more when you’re away, and this cycle of comfortseeking destruction, followed by more, perhaps harsher, punishment continues. This pattern eventually leads to other problems and ultimately can destroy your relationship with your dog. Egad!

Solving isolation and anxiety problems

To resolve the issue of separation anxiety, all efforts must be two-fold:

• Your dog’s emotional experience must be both understood and addressed.
• Your dog’s inappropriate displacement behavior must be rechannelled to more appropriate activity.

Resolving a dog’s anxiety requires more human behavior modification than anything else.

Secondhand dog separation anxiety syndrome An adopted dog often shows signs of separation anxiety, many times resulting from the ultimate separation: sheer abandonment. Most shelter dogs, in fact, exhibit some form of separation anxiety in new homes. Suddenly transported from a familiar, predictable home environment to the unavoidable chaos of a shelter existence, they’re then placed into a new home, where they’re unsure of their new family members and the rules and rituals. These dogs are often left wholly undirected, especially when left alone. In these situations, it’s best to isolate or crate a dog until he’s comfortable with his surroundings and routines. Follow the same conditioning exercises in this chapter to relieve separation anxiety.

Coming and goings

Although each of us loves our dogs and revels in their happy greetings, comings and goings need to become a far less dramatic event. If each time you (or anyone else) arrive or depart, a maniac scene ensues, your dog will never calm down when left alone. Each noise becomes cause for alert, each knock on the door a reason to kick into high gear. Though your reassurance upon departure may soothe your disappointment, it only highlights your inevitable separation, leaving your dog in an agitated state.

These simple efforts go far in de-emphasizing your absence and to condition your dog to being left alone:

• When you leave, draw the curtains or shades, if necessary, to screen out sights. Turn on a radio or television to provide human sounds and also to mask noises from outside. Simply put on your outside clothing and, without saying anything to the dog,

Tip

Consider your door as the mouth of the den. Whether you’re greeting your dog or a visitor has arrived, always address your dog after he’s calmed down and is away from the doorway.

• When you return, be equally as quiet. Though your dog may be overexcited to see you, ignore your dog for a minute or two before acknowledging her presence. Take off your coat and hat and hang them up. Put away the bags or briefcase that you’re carrying, if any, and enter the main area of the household. When your dog has calmed down, greet him quietly, and then continue on the course of your day. If you’re eager for a more ecstatic interchange, promote play in an appropriate environment, whether inside or out.

When boredom masks as anxiety

Some destructive dogs aren’t anxious at all! They’re simply not getting enough exercise and are bored. Upon close observation, these dogs are simply revved up and in need of a good romp in the park. To break their pattern of destruction, increase their exercise. When you leave, provide favorite bones or toys specifically designed to alleviate restless energy, such as food-filled hollow toys or boxes that dispense treats as they’re moved.

Tip

Toys that contain food items should be washed between every use and removed when you’re home.

Obsessive self-licking Obsessive self-licking is a touchy topic because there are many theories as to its cause, none of which is incorrect, though each one addresses a unique situation. As with every behavior problem, different stimulus prompts a behavior, and you can interpret a dog’s reaction in many ways. Here are several standing reasons that represent the occurrence of self-licking, or what is known in professional circles as Acral Lick Granuloma: Many dermatologists think that boredom is a major underlying factor in some cases of Acral Lick Granuloma. The dog’s licking activity helps pass the time. Some believe that allergic inhalant dermatitis creates stress in the skin resulting in inflammation and pruritus (itching), which triggers the dog’s propensity to lick at any convenient area. A foreign body, such as a thistle spine, splinter, or bee sting, may start up a reaction in the skin, which draws the dog’s attention to the spot. Bone or joint pain can draw the dog’s attention to the wrist or ankle area and, in an attempt to alleviate the discomfort, the dog licks over the top of the joint. Psychological stimuli, such as separation anxiety, a new pet or child in the home, or a neighbor’s dog invading the dog’s “territory,” can create psychological stress. Self-stimulation, such as picking out an area to concentrate on and licking for extended periods of time, is a way for the dog to relieve the “stress.” Hypothyroidism has played a role in some cases of Acral Lick Granuloma. Especially in Black Labs with lick granulomas, it would be a good idea to have the Thyroid Gland function checked. Thyroid medication may just be what the dog needs to have those skin lesions resolve. If your dog suffers from this condition, speak to your veterinarian and consult with a behaviorist.

Soothing Fears and Phobias

Many dogs exhibit a fear response to specific situations, places, or people at some point in their life. It’s a natural reaction to inexperience: Presented with an unfamiliar string of sensory stimulations, a puppy acts startled and looks to authority figures for direction. Handled properly, a puppy will condition to the event and integrate it into memory. For example, the first time the phone rings, a puppy may be startled, but after experiencing the routine aftermath of a telephone call, the noise no longer even wakes him from a deep sleep.

Warning!

Handled improperly, however, a dog may harbor residual fear or, worse, develop a phobic reaction, trying to hide whenever the stimulus is presented. Do you know any dogs who try to hide whenever an electrical storm occurs? Are you living with one? Dogs can develop a fear or a phobia (which is an irrational but strong fearful response) to just about anything. Here are just a handful of situations from our casebook:

• Police sirens
• Vacuum cleaners
• Rain pelting a roof
• Linoleum floors
• Reflection of a metal pan on the kitchen ceiling
• Large men
• Lawn mowers
• Loud trucks
• Sound of a violin
• Pop-up sound of a toaster
• Sight of a body of water, such as a lake

Humans can contribute to a dog’s fearfulness in a number of ways. Some involve what a person does, and some involve what a person hasn’t done — for example, a lack of socialization (see Meeting the Needs of Your Growing Puppy). The more experience a dog has with different situations, especially during the first six months of its life, the more familiar he is with everyday life.

Tip

The best way to prevent a dog from being immobilized by fear of something is to fully socialize your dog.

Some dogs learn fears by mirroring their people’s reaction to certain events. One common situation is when a small dog is lifted at the sight of a larger dog. Though there may be a reality element to this protectiveness, it’s far better for people to socialize small dogs with familiar dogs of every age and size to ensure their comfort in the world surrounding them.

Another case involves a woman who is worried or apprehensive when she encounters large male strangers on the street. Every time she’s walking her dog and she meets a strange man, she becomes nervous. Because all dogs are sensitive to body language and are literally attuned to the scent of fear, this dog learns that every time his mistress meets a man, she becomes frightened. Not surprisingly, the dog learns to be anxious in such situations as well. In this way dogs can learn to be frightened of particular classes of people, defined by their sex, size, or race.

The second way dogs can learn fears and phobias is to be rewarded for being afraid. Though no one would consciously reward a dog’s fear, the difference between our languages can sometimes spell miscommunication. If, for example, your dog acts startled when he hears a sudden clap of thunder, your natural response may be to speak empathetically and bend down to sooth your dog. Though it’s a nurturing and effective response with human children, the lowered posture, soft tones, and soothing pats communicate a very different message to your dog. In essence, your shrinking posture conveys that you’re as unsure as he is and, at a very basic psychological level, you’re rewarding your dog for being fearful.

Remember

The key to solving many problem behaviors in dogs is to “reward the behaviors that you want and ignore the behaviors that you don’t want.” Applying this philosophy to fearful behaviors takes some ingenuity, as it’s often hard to highlight good behavior when your dog is in a fearful state, but you can get around this dilemma by playing through fear and working through fear.

Playing through fear

To solve fearful behaviors, it’s helpful to reproduce the conditions that cause the fear. Thus, if a dog is afraid of thunder, you need to produce the sound of thunder, while if the dog is afraid of men wearing hats, you need a man willing to wear a hat in front of your dog. It’s also better if you can control the intensity or distance your dog is standing from the fear-producing stimulus. Fortunately, if your dog is afraid of certain sounds, sound effect recordings are available, or you can download sound clips from many Web sites, often for free.

Here’s what you need to do:

1. Prepare a favorite game, activity, or pastime as you stimulate his fear reactions.

Chasing activities, tug, or catch are great options. (If your dog doesn’t know them, teach him!)

2. Introduce the fear-producing stimulus (at a low level or at a specified distance) and instantaneously (before your dog has time to become fearful) start your play routine.

Here’s what should happen. At first, your dog may act confused or may even revert to his usual fearful behavior.

3. If your dog is confused or afraid, continue the happy play (perhaps while making the stimulus a bit weaker) for a couple of minutes and then stop.
4. Go do something else for about five minutes, while paying no attention to the dog.
5. Repeat the whole process.

You can repeat this process about four times, twice a day. You’ll know that you’re making progress when the dog starts to wag his tail and looks at you when the fear-producing stimulus starts. Then simply turn up the intensity of the stimulus a bit and continue.

Working through fear

If you’ve taught your dog basic obedience (see Happy Training, Happy Tails), use these directions to help your dog through these frightening moments. Your direction is communicating several things:

• You’re not afraid
• This stimulation is an everyday experience and nothing to be worried about.
• When your dog is afraid, he should look to you for direction, not collapse in fear.

Begin with a low level of the fear-producing stimulus (see the preceding section). Instead of play, use a leash/training collar and food rewards to direct and encourage your dog’s cooperation. The moment that the stimulation is noted, direct your dog to “follow” you and proceed to lead him about the home, yard, or sidewalk. Stop occasionally and tell him to sit, or perhaps lie down, and give him lots of treats for paying attention and responding.

Your dog may act disoriented, looking at you as if you’ve lost your mind. However, confidence is catching; by simply attending to him when he’s calm and not fearful, he’ll soon learn to incorporate the situation into his memory bank of everyday experiences. Gradually, increase the intensity of the fearful stimulus a bit and continue your work routine.

Remember

Using a leash and food rewards to direct your dog through fearful situations has a great advantage: It’s equivalent to holding a child’s hand who is afraid. Consider using this procedure to get your dog through a fearful, real-life episode. For example, if you’re out with your dog and an actual thunderstorm begins, tell your dog to heel and start to practice. No one needs to know that you’re giving psychotherapy to your dog for his thunder phobia, although they may wonder about the soggy person walking a soggy dog in the rain, and giving him lots of soggy treats.

by Stanley Coren and Sarah Hodgson

Addressing and Solving Problem Behavior

In This Chapter

• Understanding the psychology of dealing with a dog’s bad behaviors
• Crating your dog
• Correcting excessive barking
• Teaching a dog not to jump on people
• Housetraining a dog

Problem behavior is a very subjective thing. Of course, chewing on the carpet is a universal issue, as is housesoiling, but many people enjoy a lively, spirited dog jumping on them when they come home and don’t mind a few unearthed holes in the front yard. In this chapter, we put a few common frustrations under the microscope, looking at each from your dog’s perspective and offering simple straightforward remedies if, in fact, you’re seeking one.

Personal Philosophy and the Problem Dog

Consider two 4-month-old Cairn terriers who have started to do what growing terriers normally do — namely bark at every sound near your door, your window, your front walk, your street, your city. Remember, terriers are born to bark (see Interpreting Your Dog’s Breed-Specific Traits). Whether any given behavior that a dog displays is a problem is a matter of psychology — not psychology of the dog, but rather the psychological reactions of the people who live with and interact with that dog.

Sonya Brown is a young woman working her way up in an advertising firm. She has been living with one of these terriers, Toto, for nearly eight weeks, and she’s beginning to think that purchasing this lively puppy was a major mistake. She wanted a playful and affectionate dog, and Toto is certainly that. However, the dog’s continuous barking is becoming very annoying. Toto barks at everyone and everything, and it seems to her that she can no longer have a phone conversation with friends or business associates without being interrupted by her noisy dog.

Compare this to Sibyl White, a school teacher, who bought Toto’s littermate. This pup, Ozzie, was supposed to keep her semi-invalid mother company, especially while Sibyl was at work. Sibyl’s mother, Edith, was always a timid woman, and she became anxious about moving to the city to be with her daughter after her husband died and her health became worse. Edith had heard stories about how urban gang members and hardened thieves would break into homes that they thought were unoccupied or easy marks and often injure any occupants that they found. For this elderly woman, Ozzie’s alertness and noise were a great comfort, and, when not on alert, he would provide her with another form of comfort by resting close to her and allowing himself to be petted. Edith showed Sibyl an article that said that the likelihood that a home would suffer a break-in was massively reduced by simply having a dog that barked inside — regardless of the size of the dog. Sibyl could not remember her mother feeling this secure since she had moved to the city. With each outburst of barking, Edith would say, “Ozzie’s just doing his job. He’s letting them know that this house is protected.”

When mechanics conquers psychology Many times a mechanical solution is better than a behavioral solution, so it always helps to look at the possibility of changing the environment rather than the dog. Consider the following quick mechanical solutions to common dog behavior problems: The dog gets into kitchen cabinets: Solved by childproof locks on cabinet doors. The dog races out the door when it’s opened: Solved by slipping the leash on the dog before opening the door. The dog chews shoes: Solved by keeping shoes you’re not wearing in the closet. The dog cruises the counter for food: Solved by keeping the dog out of the kitchen when you’re not present or putting food away rather than leaving it on the counter. (If the dog tries to get food from the counter when you’re present, a sharp “No!” reinforced with a loud sound, like a pot hitting the floor, usually works.) The dog jumps on the bed and tries to sleep with people: Solved by closing the bedroom door or putting the dog in a kennel beside the bed. None of these solutions require a Harvard degree. Look around and see whether you can change the environment to quickly eliminate the unwanted behavior, and you may be able to save lots of training time or the cost of hiring an animal behaviorist.

Both dogs are exhibiting the same behaviors. However, Sonya considers the behavior a problem while Sibyl feels that she has the perfect dog for her situation. The issue isn’t just what the dogs are doing, but more importantly, it’s how the dogs’ owners interpret and respond to the behavior.

No matter what kind of behavior problem your dog has, the options open to you are the same ones available to everyone:

• Live with the behavior. Obviously, if the behavior isn’t bothering you, as in the case of Sibyl and her mother, you don’t have a problem, and life can go on undisturbed. If the problem bothers you a little, then you can reorganize yourself and your environment to eliminate the immediate annoying effect of the behavior and be satisfied with that. Thus, if Sonya normally talks on the phone in the kitchen where Toto barks at the kitchen window, she can simply walk into the living room.
• Let the dog continue the behavior, but change how you feel about it. Changing a person’s attitudes and emotional responses to a dog’s behaviors is sometimes easier than you may imagine. For example, Sonya is a woman living alone. Perhaps if she were shown that article about how a barking dog reduces the rate of burglary and home invasions, then she might come to be comforted at the sound of Toto’s protective barking.

In our casebook, we have an example of changing attitudes toward a dog’s behavior involving a woman named Sharon and her manic retriever. Sharon’s pet was a Labrador Retriever named Magnet who, like all Labs, was extremely sociable and loved to retrieve. Magnet would drive Sharon crazy by picking up anything that he found on the floor and carrying it to her. Plush toys, stray slippers, socks, and magazines all ended up being offered to her. Then one day Magnet showed up with a pair of glasses that Sharon’s daughter had dropped, and another day he appeared with the car keys that she had been frantically looking for. It was then that Sharon realized that perhaps this behavior was not all bad. She has now even turned Magnet’s retrieving behavior into a game. She’ll walk into a room and happily call, “Magnet, find stuff!” and the dog scours the floor for anything laying around. It helps her keep the house neat, recover lost items, and redefine her dog’s behavior so that it’s no longer a problem but rather simply something that her dog does.

• Don’t change the dog’s behavior, but change the environment so that the behavior is limited, blocked, or is no longer seen as a problem. Many people, when confronted with a behavior problem, tend to focus too much on the behavior. Consider the story of Kevin and Noodles.

Kevin shared his life with a lovely, though garbage-obsessed, collie, aptly named Noodles. In every regard, Kevin loved his dog, though he was plagued by the frustration of her garbage escapades each morning when he left to run errands. No matter how long he’d be out, he’d come home to find the kitchen floor strewn with refuse. Though he had attempted every remedy from yelling at her to dragging her over to the scene and hitting her, nothing worked.

However, the real solution was easy and obvious, once Kevin was convinced to look at his own involvement in this cycle. Because Kevin’s reaction frightened Noodles, she grew more nervous as he got ready to leave. Equipped with more appropriate toys like chews and treat cubes, Kevin was also encouraged to take one simple step that cured the issue in one instant. He purchased a garbage can with a latched lid.

• Change the dog’s behaviors so that they match what you believe to be appropriate. Actually, this approach is the psychological or training option that most people immediately think about. The rest of this chapter focuses on solutions of this sort; however, note that you have to make certain choices when you decide to change the dog’s behaviors:
• How much time do you want to spend? Often, completely changing a dog’s behavior can be time consuming or involve an expensive dog trainer.
• How drastically do you want the behavior changed? Often, a small amount of training can greatly reduce, but not completely eliminate, a dog’s problem behavior.

Suppose that your dog is messing in the house every day – obviously a problem. Do you require that your dog never, ever eliminate in the house again, or can you put up with one accident every month or so? The first solution may be very laborious and time consuming, while the second may be accomplished quite quickly. Of course, adopting the second alternative may require that you also have to change your attitudes a bit to accept an occasional transgression by your pet.

• Get rid of the dog. Your original reason to get your dog was to improve your life and give your dog a good home. If neither is the case — your life quality is not great and your home is less than ideal for a dog’s lifestyle – then it’s time to rethink matters. If you’re unwilling to cope with problem behaviors, to take the time to modify them, or to change your attitude to accommodate such a situation, then everyone may be better off if you found your dog a different household that will appreciate all her special qualities. It’s a difficult choice to make, but please keep your family’s and your dog’s interests and happiness at heart.

Tip

It may well be that you got the wrong breed of dog for your needs and living conditions (such as Sonya who may be better off with a breed of dog that seldom barks), or, sadly, you may be at a time and place in your life where you’re better off without a dog.

Denning Your Dog

Having an enclosed area, such as a crate, sectioned off playpen or room, or stationed corner (see Seeing Life from Your Dog’s Perspective ), is useful as it provides your dog with a sense of security and comfort in your home. Your dog’s wild cousins lived in a den, either a hollow area (enclosed on all sides except one), cave, or a deliberately dug-out hole. This den provided comfort and security, and was a safe place to go when its occupants chose to be undisturbed. Inside your home, the crate or small-secluded area is simply a substitute for the den.

Crates come in several materials and sizes, as do playpens. Whether you purchase or manufacture a den, or choose to enclose your dog in a small gated room, the area should be large enough in which to stand, turn around, and lie with outstretched paws. Place a soft bedding material in this area, provided your dog doesn’t chew or soil it.

Remember

Although the crate (such as those shown in Figure 13-1) may look like a cage to a human, most dogs actually like them. Locate your crate in a familiar room, ideally placing it at your bedside at night and in a populated room during the day.

Figure 13-1: Typical kennel crates. Drape a sheet over three sides of wire crates to give it a denlike feeling.

The fastest way to encourage your puppy into his kennel is with food lures and a reward system. Once all hesitation is gone, direct your dog with a verbal cue, such as “In your house.” If you’re teaching an older dog, gradually increase the amount of time she’s expected to stay. Initially shut the crate door for just a minute or two and reward her for her accomplishment. Next, close the door and try leaving the room for a few moments. Return, give her a treat, and let her out. Then gradually increase the time away from your pet.

Warning!

If your new puppy or dog is whining in the crate at night, determine whether anything is wrong or if she’s in physical discomfort. (Puppies under 12 weeks should be taken out in the middle of the night if they whine.) If nothing is wrong, ignore your dog because your attempts at comforting provide attention, which is rewarding to the dog, and thus the whining will become a habit.

Silencing Excessive Barking

Rewind to ancestral times, and you’ll quickly note that a dog’s barking was one of the chief assets of the canine/human union. More vocal alert than a wolf who howls at night, a dog’s bark provided warning to our primitive ancestors.

Though dogs still bark out their alarm or warning, few people appreciate the depth of their skill and devotion to this task. Furthermore, dogs that bark continuously at night, in their yard, in an empty home or apartment, at every dog or person that they see, and so on are considered a nuisance and often bring unwanted attention from the community and even fines for breaking anti-noise bylaws. This situation may pose a problem for the ever-eager, constantly vigil, and slightly bored dog of our modern era.

Every dog behaviorist’s casebook is filled with complaints that go something like this: “My dog barks at every little thing, even when I’m at home. She stands at the door or window and barks. I tell her to stop, I shout at her to be quiet, but nothing stops her. I think my trying to correct her may even be making her barking worse!”

Remember

Dogs bark as part of defending their territory, so it’s quite natural for a dog to bark more when he’s at home than when he’s away from home. It is important to understand what is triggering the barking response and what the dog is trying to tell you.

Remember

Barking is an alarm sound (see Communicating with Your Dog). There is no threat of aggression signaled by the dog unless it’s mixed with growls.

The most common bark heard around the house involves rapid strings of two to four barks with pauses between each set, sounding something like “Woof-woof . . . Woof-woof-woof . . . Woof-woof.” You can translate this classic alarm bark as, “Call the pack.

Something is going on that should be looked into.” It indicates that the dog senses something nearing or outside the home and is trying to bring it to the attention of his pack and pack leader. The problem is that most people fail to recognize that the dog is trying to communicate to them and that what’s required is an answer.

Because the dog is being noisy, they usually try to silence their pet by shouting, “Be quiet,” “Stop that noise,” “Shut up!” This response is exactly the wrong one because the dog interprets your yelling as “Woof-woof . . . Woof-woof-woof . . . Woof-woof.” Instead of reassuring him, your involvement now confirms that you feel the same way that he does, so don’t be surprised that your dog feels he’s done the right thing and continues to bark — perhaps even louder. After all, you’re encouraging it!

Tip

The appropriate way to stop his barking is to recognize that his noise is really a signal with a specific meaning. He wants you to investigate something. A more appropriate response is to look out the window or check the door where he’s barking. Then calmly tell him, “Good guarding,” give him a pat, and call him back over to you when you sit down again. He’ll interpret this sequence as, “I asked the leader of the pack to check things out, and my leader sees no problem. Therefore, I don’t need to continue barking.” Eventually, “good guarding” will quiet him and bring him to your side.

Notice that this solution doesn’t prevent barking. It’s normal for your dog to bark at animals and people that come onto your property or approach your door. Many cities have gone so far as to define this type of barking as “reasonable” when they’ve drafted laws concerning nuisance barking. You don’t want to completely eliminate the barking because it serves the useful purpose of alerting you to someone’s presence. However, you do want to stop it quickly and keep it under control, and communication is the way to do so.

Dogs that bark at neighbors

When your dog barks at a neighbor, he’s protecting his territory. Although his protection is warranted, the neighbors are there to stay, so it is better for everyone if you resolve this daily confrontation.

The trick is to arrange things so that the neighbors are no longer seen as trespassing marauders. Follow this simple three-step process:

1. Introduce your dog to the neighbors on common or neutral ground, such as the area between the two properties.

Let the dog make the first move to sniff or greet your neighbor, who should stand still and not stare or reach until the dog has settled down. If your dog is fearful or overly aggressive, handle him on a leash and bribe his acceptance of them with a treat or toy. If he doesn’t relax, seek professional help. Don’t force him onto anyone, or he may react in self-defense.

2. Have the neighbors come into your yard and stay for a bit.

Be sure that they interact with your dog. Have them use his name, call him a few times, offer him treats, play a bit of fetch, and so on.

3. Have the neighbors return to their own yard with some of the treats that you have provided and then have them approach the fence.

They should talk happily to the dog, use its name, and offer him a treat through the fence. If it is a solid fence, any crack or knothole will do.

Tip

Remind the neighbors that if your dog does bark at them again, they should just use her name and approach the fence to say “Hello.” Remember, the dog usually only barks to warn of strangers, and now the neighbors should no longer fit into this category.

Excessive barking in the yard

Many dogs bark when left alone outside. Though barking can drive everyone to distraction, the typical approach of screaming rarely has the desired effect. The solution lies in examining why this barking occurs in the first place.

First recognize that dogs are social animals and are most comfortable and happy when they’re in the presence of others, whether people or other dogs. Second, consider your home as your dog’s den. Isolated from entry, your dog is frustrated, lonely, and bored, which can easily escalate to fear and insecurity if the surrounding environment is noisy or unpredictable.

The solution to this kind of barking is simple: Limit your dog’s outdoor isolation and bring the dog inside the house. Even if your schedule leaves him alone, you can enclose him in a crate or room and be assured that he’ll be much happier surrounded by sights and smells that are associated with his family.

Remember

If your dog does bark when you’re away, remember that a barking dog in a home reduces the rate of burglary to one-seventh of the normal rate. A barking dog can be quite useful because he’s now protecting your home!

Other nuisance barking

Dogs that love to bark — at moving objects, noises, and sights — and those who seem to bark just for the fun of it are the hardest group to quiet. The first step in controlling the persistent noise is to help bring attention to the sounds they’re making. Like chatty children, their motto may be, “I bark, therefore I am.”

The most clever and quickest way to turn off unwanted barking is to teach the dog to bark on command! One simple way to do so is to follow this training routine:

1. Place your dog on leash and attach the leash to a fence or other stationary object.
2. Stand a few feet away and tease him with a toy; when the dog gets excited and/or frustrated and starts to bark, immediately give the direction “Speak” and then give the toy as a reward.
3. When the dog is consistently barking to the word “Speak” with the toy as a reward, switch the reward — first to a treat and later to a verbal praise.
4. At the end of a barking tirade, say “Quiet” and then reward him; after your dog recognizes “Quiet,” move a short distance away.

Learning this step may take several repetitions. Be patient.

5. When your dog responds appropriately to your commands, return to give the reward.

Eventually, you can move farther away and change to verbal rewards.

6. Finally, with a pocket full of treats, take the dog out to situations where he normally barks; each time he begins to bark, vary the duration he’s allowed to sound off before instructing “Quiet.” Reward his cooperation immediately.

You can use the “Quiet” command as an off switch to stop most barking when you’re present. However, the length of time that the dog stays quiet will depend upon what you do next. Distracting the dog with play, attention, or a brief training session can help keep him focused on you rather than the bark-inducing situation. Eventually, his silence will evolve into longer periods of silence and greater self-control on the part of your pet.

Barking in the car

Dogs often turn into frantic barkers when left alone in the car due to two factors:

• A dog’s natural instinct when something startles or frightens them is to run away, which can’t happen while riding in a car. Barking is an attempt to call his pack mates back for help.
• The car becomes the limits of their territory, and its compact area must be vigorously defended. Because no help is arriving, the barking may change to a combination of warning and threats. When the object that worried him, such as a person walking by, moves away, it rewards your dog and makes it more likely that he’ll bark again in a similar situation.

Warning!

Manic behavior in the car can be annoying and frighten passing pedestrians. If the car is moving, the dog noisily ricocheting around the interior can distract the driver and even lead to accidents.

The simplest solution to this problem actually takes less time to present than it takes to describe the behavior problem itself. This is the perfect place to use the dog’s kennel crate. If you have a hatchback car, van, or station wagon, just pop the kennel crate in the back. If you have a sedan and a small- to medium-sized dog, you can put the kennel crate on the back seat and secure it from moving during sudden stops by using a strap or the seatbelts. Now all that you need to do is to put the dog into the crate with a treat and a chew toy. The kennel walls will screen many of the exciting sights from view, which helps some dogs. However, the major benefit is that the dog understands that the crate is his den, and he’s always safe, secure, and undisturbed in his den. With no threats or anxiety, he has no need to bark, and the problem is solved.

Chewing

Chewing is as natural to dogs as touching is to kids and people. To recognize your dog’s motivation in chewing, consider his age, as well as outside disturbances that often trigger the chewing in adult dogs:

• Curiosity: Very young puppies (up to 12 weeks) mouth to experience new objects, much as young babies want to touch and hold anything within reach. The best approach is to puppyproof your home, clearing shelves and anything else within your puppy’s grasp. If he gets an object, calmly remove it and replace it with an appropriate item, such as a treat or chew toy. Don’t issue even a verbal admonishment at this age. It will make no sense and create friction in your household; it’s like yelling at a 6-month-old baby for pulling your hair.
• Teething: Young puppies do teethe, just like children. Their “milk teeth” (or first set of choppers) are displaced by the arrival of their permanent set, causing itching, pain, and sometimes bleeding. This is usually about the time your puppy may start chewing the furnishings or molding. Frankly, this reaction makes perfect sense: If he can’t locate a toy immediately, at least he always knows the whereabouts of a table leg or wall. Regardless, you need to arrange areas for your dog in each room, equipping each spot with desirable chew toys (and tying them down so they’re not carried off). In addition, spray your items at risk with a distasteful solution.

The teething stage is also the time when many dogs learn the artful game of grab-and-go, and who can blame them? It’s fun and exciting to grab an object and entice you to chase after him for it. Because the behavior is primarily attentiongetting, the best response is to simply walk away or leave your home for three minutes. At another time, prompt your dog’s interest by placing the object nearby and walking him toward it on leash. The moment he shows interest in it, tug the leash back and say, “No.” Then direct your dog to a more appropriate activity.

We often liken excessive chewing in adult dogs to an adolescent acting out: The behavior itself represents a deeper unrest, and the worst thing you can do is scold your dog after the fact. To address this issue, you must first determine whether the behavior is ageappropriate; if not, ask yourself what environmental disturbances or changes in your relationship may have prompted this restless behavior. If chewing has evolved recently, consider whether it’s occurring due to boredom, frustration/anxiety, or attention seeking. (We cover alternatives to these situations in Countering Anxiety-Based Behavior and Understanding and Resolving Aggressive Behavior.)

Putting a Damper on Jumping

In movies and cartoons, it may be funny when the big dog heads directly to the woman in white clothes, jumps up to greet her, knocks her down, and leaves muddy footprints on her dress. In real life, however, this behavior is rarely welcomed. How you stop it depends on what’s prompting your dog to jump up in the first place.

Competing behaviors To stop a dog’s annoying jumping, all that you need to do is to find a “competing behavior” that is incompatible with the act of jumping. In dogs, the easiest competing behavior for jumping and a variety of other active behaviors is to have the dog sit. One reason why it’s easy is because most people have already taught their dog to sit when given a verbal command or a hand signal. Obviously, if the dog is sitting, he can’t be jumping at the same time. To get rid of jumping behaviors as a greeting, simply tell the dog to “Sit” when you walk in the door or greet the dog in the morning. Praising, petting, or offering a bit of a treat serves as a reward. Another example of a competing behavior is when dogs jump onto the furniture. They’re seeking a soft comfortable place to rest, so providing a dog bed or floor cushion in the same room is the solution. The dog must be shown this alternative and placed there if he jumps on the sofa. Obviously, the dog can’t rest on the sofa and his bed simultaneously!

Your dog may have many reasons for jumping up. If jumping occurs during greeting rituals, his intention is to make contact with your face.

Remember

Because attention (negative or positive) reinforces behavior, many people unintentionally reward jumping. Any reaction that involves touching is considered interaction. Do you find yourself pushing or grabbing your dog’s coat as he leaps about? You may be encouraging this behavior.

Warning!

Some training books suggest harsh measures, such as kneeing the dog in the chest when he jumps on you. Such methods don’t work very well, and even when they do, they only stop the dog from jumping on the person who punishes him for it.

Greeting jumping

It’s important that you praise your dog for sitting instead of jumping. However, it’s equally important that the dog be completely ignored when jumping. Don’t say, “Bad dog” or “No” because that means that you’re paying attention to him, and attention is rewarding. Don’t push the dog away because touch is rewarding. Simply act as if the dog isn’t there, except when you’re telling the dog to sit. When the dog does sit, lots of attention and rewards are the result.

Tip

If ignoring your dog is ineffective, fold your arms over you face and continue to ignore him until he’s stopped and calmed down. Redirect him to sit or to fetch a toy.

Company jumping

If your dog is jumping on other people and you’re present, the solution is simple — just tell your dog to sit before he jumps, reward him, and then allow your visitor to pet him or give him a treat for sitting politely. If he’s too rambunctious, keep him on a leash, either stepping on it to prevent interference, holding it, or tying him back away from the door until he’s calmed down.

Of course, that approach doesn’t work when you’re not around and your visitors don’t know that they must give the “Sit” command to prevent being jumped on. There is an easy solution, however.

Most people train their dog to sit when they say the word or give a hand signal. What you must do is train the dog to sit to an additional hand signal that can be used during the greeting rituals. In this case, the hand signal that you want to use is to have both hands flat, palms up, facing the dog, as shown in Figure 13-2.

Figure 13-2: Hand signal for “Sit” to reduce jumping behavior

To train the dog to respond to this hand signal is easy. Stand in front of the dog, say “Sit” (which he already understands), and give the hand signal. Give him a treat when he responds. Once he gets used to seeing the hand signal along with the verbal command, try just the hand signal and see whether he’s figured it out. If not, keep practicing using both the hand and voice commands. When the dog understands that when both hands go up, he’s supposed to sit, you’re then ready for the dog to meet strangers, even when you’re not present.

The reason that this new hand signal prevents jumping is that it’s the same as the defensive motion that most people make to protect themselves when they’re afraid that something (like a large dog) is about to collide with them. So your visitor sees your dog approaching and makes automatic defensive hand movements (with no need of instructions from you). Your well-trained dog interprets this as a “Sit!” command, and the problem is solved. Remember, a sitting dog is not jumping up.

Housetraining

Though several scientific studies show housetraining to be the No. 1 frustration of dog owners, it doesn’t take a pie chart or graph to convince you that a dog that is not housebroken isn’t any fun. If you’re still struggling in this area, help lies just ahead.

If your puppy is young and is used to sleeping in his kennel, your efforts will be straightforward, as he’ll instinctively avoid messing in it. One of the first lessons the puppy learns from his houseproud mother is the need to be clean in the sleeping area, which she teaches by consuming all the waste that the pups produce.

Remember

Every facet of your dog’s behavior draws on his evolution. Before domestication, birth dens were kept clean to remove the scent of droppings that could lead a predator to a young litter of defenseless pups.

If your puppy is eliminating in his kennel crate, it may simply be too large. A large crate allows the pup to eliminate at one end and rest in the other. The goal is, of course, for your puppy to build control and not go until he’s released from this confinement. If you purchased an adult-sized crate, purchase or fashion a barrier to limit your puppy’s free space. Inserting a cardboard box of the right size to leave room only for the pup to turn around and lie down is an easy solution.

Bathroom buddies Experienced dog owners will tell you that it is a lot easier to housetrain a puppy if you already have a housetrained dog in the home who knows the routine. The trick is to let both the older dog and the pup out at the same time or take them on their walks together. The puppy watches the adult dog and, from simple observation, learns what is expected of him. This advice leads to an obvious recommendation. If you have an older dog in the house and fear that he is nearing the end of his life, it may be helpful to bring a new pup into your home before the older one dies. This early arrival gives the puppy a chance to be mentored in house cleanliness and other basic skills by the already trained senior dog. A side benefit is that having a new pup in the family often improves the quality of life and the activity level of the older dog and may even extend his life. To insure you choose a puppy who is compatible with your older dog, please refer to Identifying Your Dog’s Individuality. A dominant puppy can emotionally undo a peace-loving senior.

The housetraining routine

Routine is a key feature of housetraining. Draw up a master schedule and insist that everyone take part in ensuring adherence. Schedule feeding times, toilet breaks, and organized play periods. Here’s a quick list of tips:

• Young puppies and untrained dogs need to go outside after napping or after being crated for a while, because increases in activity after a period of quiet often trigger elimination. This means that the first thing in the morning, immediately after you take him out of the crate, he has to get a chance to eliminate. After a long night, puppies often can’t even make it to the door before they have to go, so you may have to carry him to the door for a week or so.
• A young puppy hasn’t developed strong bladder muscles and must be taken out frequently, particularly after eating, drinking, play, resting, and isolation. A young puppy (6 to 14 weeks of age) may benefit from being taken out eight or more times a day. This number will gradually reduce over the next six months.

Warning!

If your dog is eliminating very frequently, he may have an internal infection or parasites. Speak to your veterinarian immediately.

• Bring your dog to the same area to relieve himself. You may highlight this area with pine chips or designate a specific tree or outcropping. Have a fenced-in yard? Until your pup is housetrained, you’ll still need to accompany him to encourage and reinforce his habits.
• Don’t confuse your goals. When you take your dog out to potty, bring him to his area and ignore him until he does his business. Don’t give him walk time or play time until afterward.
• Teach your dog word cues and routines to highlight your participation, such as ringing a bell or barking before you go out. Say, “Outside” or “Papers” as you escort your dog to his area. Then cue him with another phrase, such as “Be quick” or “Get busy,” as he’s in the process of eliminating.

Tip

By repeating a phrase each time your dog eliminates, you’re indicating what you want the dog to do, and ultimately he can learn to eliminate on cue.

• Once your dog has eliminated, take time out to reward him with your attention, a fun game, or a walk. If you rush back inside immediately, your dog will learn to delay eliminating in order to spend more time outside with you.

Tip

Most puppies can hold their bladder muscles for six to eight hours. Take your puppy out just before your bedtime, even when you must rouse him from a deep sleep.

When accidents happen

Face it — accidents happen. Although dogs catch on to the housebreaking routine quickly, no one is immune to an occasional lapse. Accidents happen for a variety of reasons:

• The dog was isolated too long or not given adequate time to relieve herself during the last outing.
• He’s suffering an infection or illness.
• He awakened from a nap or had a large drink of water and no one noticed, so he wasn’t let out.
• You got home later than usual, and the dog couldn’t hold it.

If the dog messes, don’t hit him, yell at him, or rub his nose in it. A dog rarely makes the connection between your punishment and his earlier behavior. Such heavy-handed behaviors only teach the dog to be afraid of you. If you catch the dog in the act and punish him, all that you may have taught him is to make his messes in hidden places out of your sight.

If you actually catch your dog in the process of eliminating inside the house, interrupt him and take him outside to the proper place (without harsh words or punishment). If he eliminates outside, praise him. Remember to be patient; some dogs take longer than others to housebreak.

Your best course of action when faced with an occasional mess is to simply clean it up. Then use a commercial odor eliminator (many are enzyme-containing products) or simply clean the area with white vinegar or rubbing alcohol. These cleaners kill any trace scents that may trigger elimination.

Laugh a little Your interpretation and response to your dog’s behavior really determines how disruptive his delinquency is to your life. Often, a sense of humor will save your relationship with your pet. One day, Stan had done some shopping and then left the bag of groceries on the kitchen counter while he went off to a meeting. When he returned, the kitchen was a disaster area. His retriever Dancer had pulled the bag off the counter and eaten a bag of cookies and a loaf of bread from it. In the process, a plastic bottle of cola and another bottle of pink liquid stomach upset remedy had split open, covering the floor with a sticky brown and pink mess with lots of crumbs floating in it. Meanwhile, Dancer stood in the middle of this mess with his stomach distended and rumbling. Obviously, disciplining Dancer for something he’d done a couple of hours ago was useless because he wouldn’t understand the connection. Stan had the following alternatives: Yell at the dog anyway. Ignore the dog and angrily clean up the mess. Feel guilty about the fact that his dog was now in great discomfort because of his own negligence in leaving the bag so close to the edge of the counter. Laugh at the idea that his dog had not only gorged himself on forbidden sweets and washed it down with cola, but also had the foresight to drink a dose of stomachache remedy. So he laughed. It doesn’t mean that he doesn’t care or likes cleaning up sticky messes, or that he’ll ever leave things like that on the counter edge again. He laughed because it was too late to do anything but clean up and because he knew that this would be a funny story to tell to his friends. Anger only confuses the dog and weakens your relationship with your pet. It doesn’t solve any problem. Before punishing the dog for a transgression, ask yourself, “Will I laugh about this incident later or when I tell it to someone else?” If the answer is yes, why not laugh now and then get on with the business of making things right again?

Warning!

Don’t use products containing ammonia, because it smells enough like urine that it actually attracts the dog to eliminate in that place again. Also, don’t let the pup watch you clean up because your activities may draw him back to that spot again.

For more information on housetraining, see Housetraining For Dummies (Wiley), by Susan McCullough.

by Stanley Coren and Sarah Hodgson